I've been putting off making up this fabric. I don't know why, I just thought I needed a classic look for these shorts, and wasn't really sure what that was. I know I've mentioned my poor worn out Colorados a few times, but they are a classic design for denim shorts, so I thought I'd use them as a basis for making a new shorts pattern. I didn't want to make an exact copy of them, but rather use the proportions as a basis for a pattern using my own pants block.
|Poor worn out shorts|
I did a bit of an examination of my Colorados before I started my pattern. I'd never really noticed any of these details before, but I'm sure that's why they have been my super comfy go-to shorts for the last few years. The back waist sits higher than the front. The waistband, although cut in only two pieces (inside and outside), is shaped, so the front waistband is basically cut on the bias. I didn't want to try anything as drastic as that, but did make my back waist higher. I also used the method of pocket making as well, and thought I'd even do the binding on the fly pieces and inside of the waistband.
The pocket, inside waistband and binding fabric is also 100% cotton. It's one that my mother in law gave me from the stash that was left in her current house when she bought it. It's quite a nice cotton, and there is more than 2 metres of it, but I just can't see myself wearing this print. On the outside at least. The colours go well with the stripes, so I was brave enough to use it on the inside, and the only place anyone will ever see it (except on my washing line), is right here.
I made my pattern in two lengths, and chose the shorter length for this fabric. Not convinced on the final look I was after, I put it out to the girls on the stashbusting facebook page and did a poll on whether or not to add a cuff. The votes were in favour - good thing too, as I only waited for a few replies before I went ahead and did it anyway!
|Inside of poor worn out shorts|
|Using my bias binding maker|
I was trying to show the coin pocket here, but the stripes match up too well and you can barely see it!
This fabric is 100% cotton, and has no stretch in it whatsoever. I thought this would be a good test of my patterns to see why my pants keep falling to my hips. When I made them up, I needed an extra 5mm seam allowance in the side seams, taking out a total 2cm extra from the waist and 1cm through each leg. With no stretch, this actually makes the legs a little restrictive, but does nothing to stop the slipping down the waist issue.
Although the waistband looks like it fits perfectly, when I lean over, sit down, or basically move at all, the back waistband pulls away from my back creating quite a lot of gaping. I could probably take another 4cm out of the centre back of the waistband, and this is possibly what I should do (maybe not with these exact shorts, I'm too lazy to fix them)! When I sew pants with some stretch in the fabric however, I don't have this issue! Crazy, huh?
I think the time has come to bite the bullet and just make some changes to my block, based on my intuition rather than relying on what my tape measure says, or the fit of the toile made directly from the block. Not that I have any other pants planned in my immediate future though, so this will issue will probably just simmer away on the backburner for a while longer.