Lingerie: Top 10 things to avoid in bra making

When I came to the anniversary of my first blog post on the making of bras, I started to write a really long winded post about some of the failures and successes of my bra making journey so far. It was so boring though, that I couldn't even bring myself to finish writing it, so I figured no one would want to read it either. I've taken some of the things I wanted to say, and come up with a list of common sense things to avoid when bra making. Learn from my mistakes, so you avoid making them.
Here is my top 10 List of Things to Avoid in Bra Making

1. Avoid using flimsy fabric with no stabilisation.

Exhibit A

See Exhibit A, a one piece cup with darts. This was my first bra, and the grain lines were all over the place with these cups, resulting in very little "lift", or shaping. This bra only ever leaves the drawer if I've been really lazy with the washing and it's the only clean one left!

2. Be aware of the ring placement in straps. Make sure they're not right on top of your shoulder. They dig in, and it hurts! Refer also Exhibit A.  I'm ashamed to say that I did this not once, but on two bras! When I wear those bras I always end up with small round marks on my shoulders.

3. Don't assume that all elastics are created equal. Check the stretch of each different type before measuring and cutting, in case you cut them too short. Refer to Exhibit B where I cut the strap elastic shorter than with previous bras, to minimise wasted elastic, assuming it would have the same amount of give as different elastic in previous bras. Wrong! The straps ended up being too short, and the back of the bra rides up.

Exhibit B

4. Avoid machine Washing. If you want your delicate lace and silk bras to last, don't chuck them in the machine, even in a lingerie bag. Hand wash them in the sink while you're in the shower. It doesn't have to take too long.

5. Don't hand wash black silk or other non-colourfast bras with lighter coloured bras. I have dark marks on light bras as testament to this one too.

6. Don't hand wash in a sink with a plug that has black rubber around it, unless you want the black to stay on your bra forever, such as in Exhibit C. I tried everything to get this out, but it is now a permanent stain. I have contemplated replacing the strap altogether, but due to sheer laziness have decided to only wear this bra under darker coloured clothes where you won't notice the black patch on the strap.

Exhibit C

7. Choose your elastic carefully. If you're not sure of the quality, only buy enough for one bra to try out before buying more in bulk (if you're that way inclined). Exhibit D is from my cream and blue lace bra (see also Exhibit F). Despite being anchored the same as my other bras under the hook and eye closure, the elastic has strands coming free. Similarly in Exhibit E, you can see the strap elastic coming undone also.

Exhibit D

Exhibit E

Exhibit F

8. Don't settle for supplies that aren't quite what you want. I initially bought 30m of 7mm wide strap elastic, because that particular shop only had matching rings and sliders that fit that width of elastic. I have since found another bulk supplier, and bought a roll of 10mm elastic with matching findings to use instead.  7mm is just too narrow for straps, whatever you may think. Even if you don't need something wide to support the weight of your breasts, a 7mm strap on it's own is too narrow for bras, and isn't really that comfortable.

9. Irons and sheer tricot don't mix

Exhibit G

In this case, I think pictures speak louder than words. Needless to say, I had to unpick this piece and start it again!

10. Line up your seams! Sometimes I am in such a rush to finish off my bras, that I don't take the time to mark out where the seams will join. See Exhibit H, looking at the bridge. Because I didn't mark out where the seams should go, the left and right sides aren't level. Compare this with Exhibit I, where I did mark out the joining points - a much neater result!

Exhibit H

Exhibit I

These are just some of the things that I have learnt the hard way in bra making. What are your top things to avoid?