The only change I made to the last pattern, was to change this from a 2 piece cup to a 3 piece cup. To do this, I lined up where the bra band joins the cup, cutting the lower pattern piece in two, rounding out the seams and adding seam allowances.
|The pattern I used for this bra|
|Pattern development using my new bra block|
I'm happy to report that this all worked out fine. I may just stick to 3 piece cups in the future. The only times I have tried making a bra with a 2 piece cup, they have been, let's say, less than successful. (see here, black bra, and of course here for the previous white silk bra). Both of these had bra wadding too. The only other 2 piece cup that I've made was all lace with no bra wadding and it worked out fine. I will make an exception when I try a bra with stretch cups. I have some stretch lace all ready and waiting.
Interfacing and white silk - stash / leftover scraps
$0.79 Bra wadding
$0.84 Underwire casing
$0.67 Strap elastic
$1.54 Hook and eye closure
$0.54 Thread (rough estimate)
Grand Total $6.32
This bra fits really well. That's all.
Wait on though. I do still have the issue to address of whether or not a partial band bra can work for me. After some investigating of how my full band bras fit, I have come to the conclusion that none of them have really been sitting in the exact right place. If you look at the photo above of this latest bra, the area of the wire directly under the bridge does not sit flush against my skin. And no, I don't intend ever to share photos of me wearing any of my bras.
This is the main issue that I have had with partial band bras. However, after examining how other bras sit, I have realised that they ALL do this, to some extent, but with a full band, I just don't notice that happening when I'm wearing it, as there is a band with elastic underneath the wire. You can certainly tell when you take it off though, when looking at the impression that the wire line makes on the skin.
My next few bras will be concentrating on fixing this issue. Rotating the wires by taking a small wedge out of the bridge seems to be the logical fix, but using the next size underwire will also help. I think. I've already had a look at how the 12D differs from the 12C, and there isn't really that much difference. But it might just be that small difference that I need.
I'll keep you posted on how I go.