This bra pattern literally stormed the internet last year (well, if you're part of any lingerie sewing groups on Facebook, or read lots of sewing blogs it certainly felt like it did!) I love the beautiful curved upper cup on the pattern, and thought it would be interesting to see how a pattern not drafted to my measurements would fit.
I downloaded what I thought would be the right size for me at the time, but only just had a chance to look at it again last month.
My journey with this bra was almost over before it began. I thought I should probably check how my underwires compared with the cradle pattern before I got too carried away, and discovered that my wires were too long for the size I had printed. I then printed out a few other sizes, comparing my wires with each as I went. I ended up going from my original 34B, to a 34C after printing out these as well as the 32C, 34B and 34D. I almost went larger, but decided to compare the overall length of the wire, rather than the orientation.
The wires were the right length for the 34C, although the sizing was just a little larger than my RTW size. When positioned correctly, my wire starts about 1cm lower than this at CF, and ends 1cm higher under the arm.
Before cutting out my pattern pieces, I drew in my preferred seam allowances (7mm for seams and 11mm for elastic). Knowing that the cradle piece for my recently completed bra based on the Foundations Revealed method was already fitted to me, I overlaid that pattern piece onto the Maya cradle piece, and redrew the curve for the underwire, lining up the centre front, and the lowest point of the underwire.
This then necessitated changes to the underarm line on the cradle and band, and for the notch at the base of the cradle to move outwards by about 1cm also.
|This is what happened to the shape: more volume towards the CF|
The true test of course, would be the fit when made up properly.
|Freshly dyed lemon (antique gold)|
I even made a pair of matching undies!
I made a few changes to my self drafted pattern to add a panel of lace to the front. I didn't add any extra width to my pattern piece, stupidly believing that the mechanical stretch in the lace would provide enough stretch. It doesn't really, but they're still wearable. The main fabric is leftovers of cream jersey, previously used in my Alabama Chanin dress and Flower and Leaf top, and the elastic was dyed at the same time as all the other bits and pieces.
The Cost (bra only)
Stash Satin and lace
$0.71 Bra Wadding
$0.79 Underwire casing
$0.55 Strap elastic
$0.33 Rings and Sliders
$1.54 Hook and eye closure
$0.54 Thread (rough estimate)
$6.97 Grand Total
I can't believe how well this bra fits. Despite the odd shaping of the cups after all my pattern tweaking, it doesn't give me an odd shape when I'm wearing it. This is one of the most comfortable bras that I have made, and I love how I have a matching set.