I don't often use commercial patterns anymore, and so when working out how much fabric I need when sewing fabric from my stash, I usually pick the fabric I'm going to sew first, and use gut feel and hope for the best when I've finished making the pattern. This time, I checked the back of the pattern envelope, and the requirement for my jacket was 2.4 m of 150 cm wide fabric. Now, I know commercial patterns have a tendency to overstate how much fabric you require, but I only have 2 metres of fabric (150 cm wide), and my plans for the pattern included making it bigger, hence using more fabric, not less.
On to the alterations that I made to the pattern:
- Added in a box pleat below the waist at the centre back
- Added sleeve vents
- Added a buttoned 'belt' across the centre back section at waistline
- Reduced the seam allowances to 10 mm from the 15 mm included in the pattern (which is what I normally work with when making my own patterns). At the side seams I left the allowances as they were, to increase the overall width of the jacket by 2 cm. I also allowed extra from the waist line up on all pieces, to give a bit of extra ease. I allowed an extra 1 cm in the sleeves also.
- Reduced the collar pieces down a bit.
I tackled the pattern alterations last week, and managed to cut the fabric out at the start of this week. I even have about 10 cm of fabric to spare. Helping your kids with jigsaw puzzles has some benefits after all!
|The Pattern Layout|
I was just about to start sewing the underlining to the main fabric pieces, when some fabric across the room caught my eye. I noticed some lace fabric, complete with lining, that my husband bought for me in Vietnam last year. I didn't have any lining for this jacket yet, and thought briefly about just using this lining. But then I would be left with lace that had nothing to go under it.
I have seen a few beautiful coats recently with lace overlays. Sewaholic's blog features a few versions of the Robson Coat done with lace, and let's face it, they look Awesome! Needless to say, my attempts at sewing came to a standstill to consider whether or not to use the lace, and ditch the heavy calico underlining that I had already cut out. The colour goes beautifully and adds some life to the fabric that I was already using, but then the lace will be gone and I won't be able to make something else with it (but I will have used up more stash fabric!!)
|My original fabric with the lace and lining|